San Miguel, Bulacan, is a town where revolutions were planned and cinema legends once walked. It is almost unthinkable that it has been quietly forgotten. Travelers rarely mention it for heritage, food, or nature, and I have to admit that I never had a clear image of it myself.

It was only through the tireless work of the local heritage group Pamana de Mayumo that I finally had a chance to appreciate the town, joining a carefully curated tour organized in partnership with Manilakad, led by Mr. Jing Ordona.

San Miguel is a first-class, landlocked municipality in the northern part of Bulacan, about 76 kilometers from Manila. The town is steeped in history: it was the birthplace of the Republic of Biak-na-Bato and served as a crucial hideout for revolutionary forces. Beyond its political significance, San Miguel is renowned for its 19th-century heritage houses and is celebrated as the birthplace of pastillas de leche, the town’s signature sweet.

Originally called San Miguel de Mayumo, the name honors Miguel Pineda, its first leader, and incorporates the Kapampangan word mayumo, meaning “sweet,” a fitting nod to both its history and culinary heritage. It is common to hear locals greet visitors with “Mayumong umaga” or “Mayumong araw.”

It became San Miguel after a stone image of Saint Michael the Archangel was discovered in Madlum Cave, prompting the townspeople to adopt him as their patron.

And our exploration began at his shrine.

The town’s spiritual center, the Diocesan Shrine and Parish of San Miguel Arcangel, is located along De Leon Street in Barangay Poblacion, just a tricycle ride away from where the bus dropped us off.

Aside from its religious significance, the church grounds serve as the final resting place of historical figures such as Maximo Viola, a native of San Miguel and close friend of Dr. Jose Rizal who financed the printing of Noli Me Tangere, as well as Tomas Tecson and other members of the Tecson family, whose ancestral home once served as Emilio Aguinaldo’s headquarters prior to his journey to Pangasinan.

From there, we walked around the block, in signature Manilakad fashion, before heading to Engalla’s Buro, where we learned how to make this Filipino fermented rice dish. We watched the process and learned that not everyone is cut out to make buro well.

Baby of Engalla's Buro

We then proceeded to Rizal Street, where several of San Miguel’s most remarkable heritage houses stand.

First on the itinerary was the Doña Narcisa “Sisang” B. De Leon Residence. Known as the “Grand Matriarch of Philippine Movies,” Donya Sisang was the driving force behind LVN Pictures, a studio that defined Philippine cinema for decades. The films Bayaning Third World and Itim were both shot here.

Next was the Simon Tecson Mansion, an imposing structure that holds centuries of revolutionary history within its walls. Simon Tecson, who served in the Filipino armed forces during both the Spanish and American periods, hosted General Emilio Aguinaldo here just days before the signing of the Pact of Biak-na-Bato.

The mansion itself is a testament to both defensive strategy and architectural ingenuity. Secret passages, hidden nooks, and small openings functioned like a rudimentary version of modern surveillance, allowing residents to observe the outside world while remaining unseen.

Further along Rizal Street stood the Ceferino de Leon House, another stately residence connected to a prominent family. Ceferino Santiago de Leon, a lawyer, Malolos Congress member, and Philippine senator, once lived here. He was also the father of Trinidad de Leon Roxas, the country’s fifth First Lady and wife of President Manuel Roxas.

A glass urn within the house reportedly holds soil stained with the blood of Dr. Jose Rizal. Sadly, it can now only be admired from a distance due to damage caused by a careless film crew.

Our final heritage stop was the Sempio Mansion, also known as the Damaso Sempio House. This home welcomed revolutionary figures such as General Gregorio del Pilar and General Artemio Ricarte.

This was the most surreal stop for me, as I finally saw in person the life-sized Last Supper tableau, which I had previously encountered only through television features, magazines, and online publications.

One fascinating insight I learned here was that in San Miguel, each religious statue was traditionally assigned about a hectare of land, with the income used for maintenance, clothing, and overall care. In the case of the Last Supper, around 20 hectares were allotted to cover the 12 apostles, Jesus Christ, Veronica, and the two servants.

Lunch followed, which was another trip highlight.

Lunch was served at the rest house of Thea Munsayac, our lead organizer, located in Biak-na-Bato. The property has also served as a filming location for several movies.

Our table was filled with an array of dishes: arroz valenciana, fried and grilled fish, pancit, buro, pastillas, and other delicacies that celebrated the richness of Filipino cuisine. Beyond the food, there were stories shared by members of Pamana de Mayumo and Thea’s father, Jose Rey Munsayac, an author and multiple-time Palanca Award winner. It was also the first time we truly got to know everyone who joined the tour.

More sweets followed after lunch. We visited Andrea’s Sweet Delicacies, where we saw the process of making pastillas using only carabao’s milk, gently cooked with sugar until thick and creamy, then rolled and dusted in sugar.

The day concluded with a visit to Biak-na-Bato National Park, a historic and natural treasure in its own right.

It is a rugged natural reserve known for its limestone cliffs, caves, rivers, and dense forest cover, and it served as a hideout for Filipino revolutionaries during the fight against Spanish rule.

I have hiked Mt. Manalmon, one of the park’s more popular destinations, several times before, but this was my first time visiting this part of the park, and I can honestly say I had been missing out.

Our one-kilometer hike to Bahay Paniki, which literally means house of bats, rewarded us with one of nature’s most spectacular sights, as countless bats emerged from the cave at dusk. It was the perfect cap to our one-day heritage, food, and nature exploration.

If you want to experience this, you may contact Manilakad or Pamana de Mayumo.

For 18 years, volunteers from Trails to Empower Kids (TREK) have reached out to remote communities to provide essential support. To mark this milestone anniversary, we returned to Loccong, the farthest and highest community in Tinglayan, Kalinga.

After a month away, I made my way to Iloilo, a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, to indulge in the Filipino food I had been missing.

This gastronomic adventure was organized by the Iloilo City Mayor’s Office for Culture and Heritage and Richmonde Hotel Iloilo. It was made possible by Clark International Airport and Cebu Pacific Air, which flies to Iloilo four times a week from Clark.

Breakfast at Richmonde was a full buffet feast, complete with bacon cooked two ways. 

From there, we headed to Uswag Agri-Nursery. Iloilo’s UNESCO recognition is linked to its culinary heritage and its innovative urban farming projects. These farms support local food security and sustainability while keeping traditional Ilonggo flavors thriving.

Farmers welcomed us with rice cakes, fresh fruits, and the comforting classic KBL, made with kadyos, buko, and langka. Chef Cidj Jalandoni, who I know first as a runner, demonstrated a simple ensaladang talbos, one of our favorite salads at home.

Since it was still early and we already had two breakfasts, we made a quick stop at Casa Mariquit, a beautifully preserved bahay na bato built in 1803. Located in Jaro, it is considered the oldest existing heritage house in Iloilo.

We then walked to Biscocho Haus, which is now celebrating 50 years. Established in 1975, it continues to delight visitors with its signature pasalubong items, including Biscocho, Butterscotch, Merengue, Toasted Mamon, Galletas, and other local favorites. 

I also made a nearby quick stop at Panaderia ni Pa-a, a brick-oven bakery established in 1896, to grab my mom’s favorite pasalubong.

Of course, no Iloilo trip is complete without a stop at Roberto’s for their legendary siopao. Many would argue these are the best in the country.

Lunch was at Tatoy’s Manokan and Seafood Restaurant. It has been serving authentic flavors for more than four decades and remains a favorite for its grilled chicken and seafood.

My personal favorites came later in the afternoon.

We went to Happy Ending, one of the stalls at Molo Mansion. The creators of Happy Ending are geniuses for transforming Ilonggo flavors into ice cream. The KBL flavor blends kadyos, buko, and langka into something refreshingly familiar. The batwan cheesecake turns the region’s sour fruit into a creamy, tangy treat. The baye-baye highlights the soft, toasted rice delicacy that Ilonggos love, now in ice cream form.

We then visited one of the many stalls of Jo-Anne’s famous fishball. These are far from the typical store-bought kind, and the mango sauce in three spice levels makes them even more special. I really wish we had this in Manila.

We also visited Panaderia de Molo, the oldest panaderia in the Philippines, established in 1872. Their banyadas, biscocho príncipe, galletas, hojaldres, and other pastries trace their origins to the Jason sisters of Molo. When Molo Church was rebuilt in stone in the late 19th century, egg whites were used to bind the slabs together. The leftover yolks were turned into heirloom biscuits based on old Spanish recipes.

Before winding down, we had drinks at The Urban Table. Their cocktails were inspired by Iloilo, including the Guimaras Highball, Pinasugbo Daiquiri, and Tablea de Biscocho made with products from Destileria Limtuaco. We also learned that Chef Luigi Muhlach helped develop their menu.

The day ended back at Richmonde with a feast that felt like a love letter to Ilonggo cuisine. 

Iloilo offers different types of food tours, such as heritage, chef’s picks, and sustainable eats. I was lucky to join one that combined two of my favorites, street food and panaderia culture. I will admit that I missed a few personal favorites during this tour, but Richmonde made sure we still got the full experience.

They set up interactive stations where we could make our own batchoy, molo soup, kinilaw, okoy, and even tiramisu. Each bite was packed with rich, authentic flavors that felt straight from Iloilo’s kitchens. It was a feast of Ilonggo favorites under one roof and the perfect, unforgettable way to reconnect with the flavors I had been missing.

From heritage bakes to street food and creative cocktails, my day in Iloilo was a feast for the senses and a reminder of why Filipino cuisine is world-class.