Just before the pandemic, I joined cultural tours of Quiapo Muslim Town and Poblacion, Makati. Soon after came lockdowns, closed borders, and a tourism industry forced to hit pause. I never got around to writing about either experience, but I often found myself thinking about them.
During and after the pandemic, I kept returning to Quiapo for the food. Poblacion, meanwhile, remained one of my favorite neighborhoods whenever I wanted a good meal or a night out with friends.
So when the Philippine Tour Operators Association (PHILTOA) invited me to join its Muslim-Friendly & Modern Manila Tour under the LakBayanihan Manila Series, I happily said yes. It felt like finally revisiting stories I had left unfinished.
The program explores new ways of experiencing Metro Manila beyond the usual tours of Binondo and Intramuros. This time, we explored the rich Muslim heritage of Quiapo and the evolving districts that make up Modern Manila.
Muslim-Friendly Manila
Tucked behind the busy streets of Quiapo is a community that many people pass by but rarely explore. Centered around the Golden Mosque, Quiapo Muslim Town offers visitors a chance to experience the traditions, culture, cuisine, and everyday life of the Filipino Muslim community. It's a side of Manila that deserves far more attention.
Our first stop was breakfast at Wakilah, one of Quiapo's best-known halal restaurants. It was also the place I had been looking forward to visiting again. While enjoying roti banana, roti cheese, roti telur with curry dip, the restaurant's signature Giant Roti Tissue Tower, and hot teh tarik, the organizers briefed us on the day's itinerary. They also gave us a refresher on Muslim culture, traditions, and the history of the community.
Before leaving Wakilah, we gathered around Chef Gey, the restaurant's resident roti master and a social media favorite. Watching him stretch, twirl, and flip paper-thin dough into delicate layers is one of Wakilah's biggest attractions.
Our next stop introduced us to Muslim traditions and everyday customs. We learned about oil-based perfumes, henna, miswak, a natural toothbrush, and bakhoor, a fragrant incense used to perfume clothing and homes. One of the highlights was getting to wear a hijab before entering the Golden Mosque. I chose a blue one to add a splash of color to my black skirt and the brown Department of Tourism NCR shirt we were given for the tour.
Officially known as Masjid Al-Dahab, the Golden Mosque was built in 1976 and remains the largest mosque in Metro Manila. Although time has left its mark, its golden dome continues to stand as an enduring symbol of the country's Muslim heritage.
Inside the mosque, researcher and broadcast journalist Nords Maguindanao explained the Five Pillars of Islam. His talk gave us a better understanding of the beliefs and practices observed by Muslims around the world.
We were supposed to visit a nearby madrasa, or Islamic school, but the students came to meet us at the mosque. PHILTOA prepared small gifts for them, and watching the children interact with our group became one of the day's most heartwarming moments.
Our walk continued through the neighborhood's padian. Here we discovered sakurab, the wild leek that gives the famous Maranao condiment palapa its distinctive flavor. We also sampled dodol, a sticky delicacy made from glutinous rice and coconut milk.
Lunch was at Arab Asian Little Resto, where we experienced a traditional Pagana Maranao. Considered the highest expression of Maranao hospitality, the feast featured a generous spread of Maranao and Tausug dishes that showcased the rich culinary traditions of Mindanao.
Joining us was former Department of Tourism Undersecretary Myra Paz Valderrosa-Abubakar, one of the pioneers of the country's Muslim-friendly tourism program. She spoke about the Philippines' efforts to become a more welcoming destination for Muslim travelers.
Modern Manila
The second half of the tour focused on Modern Manila. It highlighted places that reflect the capital's contemporary culture, public spaces, history, and creative communities.
Before heading to Bonifacio Global City, we stopped at the Likhang Filipino Exhibition Halls. The visit served as a nice transition from the heritage-focused morning to the city's contemporary side. The exhibition halls celebrate Filipino artistry and craftsmanship. In my opinion, they remain one of Manila's most underrated cultural attractions.
From there, we continued to Bonifacio Global City (BGC), Taguig. Once part of Fort Bonifacio, BGC has transformed from a military reservation into one of Metro Manila's leading business, lifestyle, and cultural districts. Today, it is known for its walkable streets, public art, museums, parks, and modern skyline.
Our first stop was the Manila American Cemetery, the largest American military cemetery outside the United States. Spread across 152 acres of landscaped grounds, it serves as the final resting place of more than 17,000 American servicemen who died during World War II. The limestone memorial also honors thousands more whose remains were never recovered.
Although the cemetery has always been part of the view from my condo, this was my first time exploring it on foot. Walking here gave me a greater appreciation of its peaceful beauty and the sacrifices it commemorates.
Another first for me was the Philippine Army Museum inside Fort Bonifacio. Through uniforms, weapons, historical artifacts, military vehicles, photographs, and interactive exhibits, the museum traces the evolution of the Philippine Army from the Revolution to the present day. It also gave me a better appreciation of the Army's role in the country's history.
Our final stop in BGC was The Portal, the first installation of its kind in Asia. Inspired by the global Portal project, the installation digitally connects people in different locations, allowing strangers to see and greet each other in real time. I've walked past it many times, but it was fun to finally stop and watch people interact across the digital gateway.
From BGC, we headed to Poblacion, Makati. Today, the neighborhood is best known for its restaurants, bars, and nightlife. But it also has a rich cultural side. Landmarks such as the centuries-old Saints Peter and Paul Parish and the Museo ng Makati tell the story of old Makati. Because of time constraints, our visit focused on Poblacion's culinary scene.
We made several carefully chosen stops. We began at Only Pans, where we sampled its popular birria.
We then visited Pearl Room, still one of my favorite places for unlimited oysters. At Velveteen House, we learned how locally distilled spirits are transformed into creative cocktails that celebrate Filipino ingredients.
We ended the evening at Michelin-recognized Lampara which serves bold and contemporary interpretations of Filipino cuisine.
These places reminded me that Metro Manila still has so many stories waiting to be discovered.
I still recommend starting with Intramuros if you want to understand the city's history. From there, I'd head to Bonifacio Global City to experience modern Manila. For food, Binondo will always be one of my favorites, but I'd happily add Quiapo Muslim Town and Poblacion to the list. Each neighborhood tells a different story. Together, they paint a richer and more complete picture of Manila.








