Almost two decades after Trails to Empower Kids, or TREK, started, we continue to travel to communities that are not always easy to reach. These are places where help does not always reach, and where even simple things can make a difference.

For our 46th mission, we found ourselves back in San Luis, for our third outreach in the municipality and our seventh in the province.

Getting to San Luis

One of the challenges of organizing these outreach programs is logistics. Transporting donations has always been a challenge for us. With the volume of donations we collected, even after already sending two batches to Aurora, we still had so much left to bring.

It was a happy problem, though, and we solved it by going ahead of the group two days before the outreach. My mom, on her second TREK, and my baby dog Aeon came along with me. We took the bus, which had enough luggage space to accommodate the extra donations, something we couldn't manage as easily with the three rented vans we would be using for the rest of the group.

Going ahead gave me the chance to bring my mom to the beaches of Baler, which she was visiting for the first time. It also gave us time to help our Team Leader, Noel Dulay, with the preparations before the rest of the volunteers arrived.

On outreach day, the volunteers started arriving as early as 4:30 a.m.

We regrouped in Maria Aurora, where we had breakfast before continuing to San Luis. From there, the adventure really began.

Reaching Dibut Beach, our jump-off point for the boat ride to Diotorin, was not exactly a straightforward drive. The roads were steep, and some portions were unpaved, which became quite a challenge for our rented vans.

But thanks to our drivers’ skills, we reached beautiful Dibut Beach safely and immediately started loading the donations onto our boats.

From Dibut Beach, we continued by boat toward Diotorin, the remote coastal community where the outreach would take place.

We were relatively blessed with good weather. Although the boat ride took more than an hour, it was a beautiful way to see the San Luis coastline. 

As we approached the community, the first thing we saw was the students. As soon as they spotted our boat, they started waving.

When we reached the shore, they ran toward us, took our hands, and greeted us with mano, a Filipino gesture of respect where one takes an elder’s hand and gently brings it to the forehead. Some of the children hugged us, too. A few even walked with us to their school, which was just a very short walk from the beach.

It was one of the most heartwarming welcomes we have ever received.

A Day with the Students

Once we reached the school, it was time for our usual TREK program.

Diotorin Integrated School is located in Sitio Diotorin, Barangay Dibayabay, San Luis, Aurora. The school has more than a hundred students, from Kindergarten to Grade 7. Some of them are from Indigenous Peoples communities.

The school recently became an integrated school, which means students can now continue their education up to Grade 7 without having to leave their community after elementary school. This is especially important for families here, as continuing their education used to mean sending their children to schools farther away, something that not everyone could afford.

We had been researching Diotorin Integrated School for years and had wanted to include it in one of our outreach programs. It just took us this long to finally find the time and opportunity to get there.

During out turnover ceremonies, while our kitchen team was busy preparing lunch, we handed out cookies to the students. After that, we had games, with the usual running, laughing, shouting, and competitive spirit that somehow appears whenever TREK kids and volunteers get together.]

After that, we distributed their gifts. 

Before the outreach, we had asked each of them what they wanted. As always, the wishes ranged from practical school items to simple things they had been hoping to receive.

This has been my favorite part of our outreach programs. These kids live in geographically isolated areas and have very little access to some of the things they wish for. Most of their wishes were very simple. There was even a kid who asked for nothing more than bread. Seeing their reactions when they finally received what they wished for was precious.

After the wishes, we distributed school and personal essentials. The students received umbrellas, backpacks, school supplies, tumblers, and hygiene kits.

We also turned over supplies for the teachers, solar panels, and a few AM/FM radios for the parents.

Then it was time for lunch. The kids had spaghetti and chicken, while the volunteers had something just as special. The parents prepared a spread of local dishes for us, including fresh fish and shrimp.

It is something I always appreciate about these outreaches. We arrive thinking about what we can give, but the communities always find their own way of giving back.

School Head Sir Mark Anthony Neypes also shared his gratitude to TREK and the volunteers for bringing much-needed support to Diotorin Integrated School, a “last mile” school.

“Sa tagal na pong nakatayo ang aming paaralan, ngayon lang po sila nabigyan ng napakarami at nag-uumapaw na gamit.” (In all the years that our school has been here, this is the first time that our students have received such an abundance of supplies and things they need.)

His words were a reminder of just how much these simple things can mean to a community that is far from the usual sources of assistance.

Staying a Little Longer

With the outreach done, we had time to enjoy the other side of the trip: exploring new places and spending time together as a group.

We spent a night at Dibut Beach. For our group of around 30, we rented one big cottage and six smaller ones at Israel Beach Camp. The big cottage had an open kitchen and dining area, which became our common space for the night and the perfect place for everyone to gather.

I always miss these moments when everyone is simply together after a long day.

Our volunteers prepared dinner, we ate well, and we shared stories about the day's adventures. There was no rush. Just good food, good company, and that familiar feeling of being together after a successful TREK outreach.

Breakfast the next morning was just as good.

Afterward, we continued our Aurora adventure with a visit to the newly opened National Museum Baler, followed by a buffet lunch along Sabang Beach, before making our way to Villa Aurora Eco-Tourism Area, or VAETA.

Discovering VAETA

The drive took us deeper into the Sierra Madre, along winding, dizzying roads that seemed to go on and on.

From the parking area, we crossed a hanging bridge and followed a moss-covered cement trail to reach the villas. Others in our group took 4x4 vehicles that crossed the river.

VAETA is still relatively new and developing, and the accommodations are simple. Some villas have private toilets and baths, while some rooms have bunk beds. There were very few mattresses available.

There is electricity but no cellphone signal, and there are no food outlets.

For us, though, none of that was a problem. For our group, having a solid roof over our heads instead of sleeping in tents was already a luxury. And we came prepared, with our sleeping bags, food, and other provisions for the stay.

One of the highlights of our overnight stay at VAETA was the trek to Ubot Falls, a 14-meter waterfall that drops over a rocky wall into a natural pool. 

After the trek, we got to swim and spend some time by the river.

I also liked that VAETA is locally managed, with members of the Egongot Indigenous community helping manage the area, protect the forest, and guide visitors.

VAETA was a fitting way to end the trip. After spending the weekend giving back to a remote community, we got to slow down, explore somewhere new, and simply enjoy being together.

Just before the pandemic, I joined cultural tours of Quiapo Muslim Town and Poblacion, Makati. Soon after came lockdowns, closed borders, and a tourism industry forced to hit pause. I never got around to writing about either experience, but I often found myself thinking about them. 

During and after the pandemic, I kept returning to Quiapo for the food. Poblacion, meanwhile, remained one of my favorite neighborhoods whenever I wanted a good meal or a night out with friends.

So when the Philippine Tour Operators Association (PHILTOA) invited me to join its Muslim-Friendly & Modern Manila Tour under the LakBayanihan Manila Series, I happily said yes. It felt like finally revisiting stories I had left unfinished.

The program explores new ways of experiencing Metro Manila beyond the usual tours of Binondo and Intramuros. This time, we explored the rich Muslim heritage of Quiapo and the evolving districts that make up Modern Manila.

Muslim-Friendly Manila

Tucked behind the busy streets of Quiapo is a community that many people pass by but rarely explore. Centered around the Golden Mosque, Quiapo Muslim Town offers visitors a chance to experience the traditions, culture, cuisine, and everyday life of the Filipino Muslim community. It's a side of Manila that deserves far more attention.

Our first stop was breakfast at Wakilah, one of Quiapo's best-known halal restaurants. It was also the place I had been looking forward to visiting again. While enjoying roti banana, roti cheese, roti telur with curry dip, the restaurant's signature Giant Roti Tissue Tower, and hot teh tarik, the organizers briefed us on the day's itinerary. They also gave us a refresher on Muslim culture, traditions, and the history of the community.

Before leaving Wakilah, we gathered around Chef Gey, the restaurant's resident roti master and a social media favorite. Watching him stretch, twirl, and flip paper-thin dough into delicate layers is one of Wakilah's biggest attractions.

Our next stop introduced us to Muslim traditions and everyday customs. We learned about oil-based perfumes, henna, miswak, a natural toothbrush, and bakhoor, a fragrant incense used to perfume clothing and homes. One of the highlights was getting to wear a hijab before entering the Golden Mosque. I chose a blue one to add a splash of color to my black skirt and the brown Department of Tourism NCR shirt we were given for the tour.

Officially known as Masjid Al-Dahab, the Golden Mosque was built in 1976 and remains the largest mosque in Metro Manila. Although time has left its mark, its golden dome continues to stand as an enduring symbol of the country's Muslim heritage.

Inside the mosque, researcher and broadcast journalist Nords Maguindanao explained the Five Pillars of Islam. His talk gave us a better understanding of the beliefs and practices observed by Muslims around the world.

We were supposed to visit a nearby madrasa, or Islamic school, but the students came to meet us at the mosque. PHILTOA prepared small gifts for them, and watching the children interact with our group became one of the day's most heartwarming moments.

Our walk continued through the neighborhood's padian. Here we discovered sakurab, the wild leek that gives the famous Maranao condiment palapa its distinctive flavor. We also sampled dodol, a sticky delicacy made from glutinous rice and coconut milk.

Lunch was at Arab Asian Little Resto, where we experienced a traditional Pagana Maranao. Considered the highest expression of Maranao hospitality, the feast featured a generous spread of Maranao and Tausug dishes that showcased the rich culinary traditions of Mindanao.

Joining us was former Department of Tourism Undersecretary Myra Paz Valderrosa-Abubakar, one of the pioneers of the country's Muslim-friendly tourism program. She spoke about the Philippines' efforts to become a more welcoming destination for Muslim travelers. 

Modern Manila

The second half of the tour focused on Modern Manila. It highlighted places that reflect the capital's contemporary culture, public spaces, history, and creative communities.

Before heading to Bonifacio Global City, we stopped at the Likhang Filipino Exhibition Halls. The visit served as a nice transition from the heritage-focused morning to the city's contemporary side. The exhibition halls celebrate Filipino artistry and craftsmanship. In my opinion, they remain one of Manila's most underrated cultural attractions.

From there, we continued to Bonifacio Global City (BGC), Taguig. Once part of Fort Bonifacio, BGC has transformed from a military reservation into one of Metro Manila's leading business, lifestyle, and cultural districts. Today, it is known for its walkable streets, public art, museums, parks, and modern skyline.

Our first stop was the Manila American Cemetery, the largest American military cemetery outside the United States. Spread across 152 acres of landscaped grounds, it serves as the final resting place of more than 17,000 American servicemen who died during World War II. The limestone memorial also honors thousands more whose remains were never recovered.

Although the cemetery has always been part of the view from my condo, this was my first time exploring it on foot. Walking here gave me a greater appreciation of its peaceful beauty and the sacrifices it commemorates.

Another first for me was the Philippine Army Museum inside Fort Bonifacio. Through uniforms, weapons, historical artifacts, military vehicles, photographs, and interactive exhibits, the museum traces the evolution of the Philippine Army from the Revolution to the present day. It also gave me a better appreciation of the Army's role in the country's history.

Our final stop in BGC was The Portal, the first installation of its kind in Asia. Inspired by the global Portal project, the installation digitally connects people in different locations, allowing strangers to see and greet each other in real time. I've walked past it many times, but it was fun to finally stop and watch people interact across the digital gateway.

From BGC, we headed to Poblacion, Makati. Today, the neighborhood is best known for its restaurants, bars, and nightlife. But it also has a rich cultural side. Landmarks such as the centuries-old Saints Peter and Paul Parish and the Museo ng Makati tell the story of old Makati. Because of time constraints, our visit focused on Poblacion's culinary scene. 

We made several carefully chosen stops. We began at Only Pans, where we sampled its popular birria. 

We then visited Pearl Room, still one of my favorite places for unlimited oysters. At Velveteen House, we learned how locally distilled spirits are transformed into creative cocktails that celebrate Filipino ingredients. 

We ended the evening at Michelin-recognized Lampara which serves bold and contemporary interpretations of Filipino cuisine.

These places reminded me that Metro Manila still has so many stories waiting to be discovered.

I still recommend starting with Intramuros if you want to understand the city's history. From there, I'd head to Bonifacio Global City to experience modern Manila. For food, Binondo will always be one of my favorites, but I'd happily add Quiapo Muslim Town and Poblacion to the list. Each neighborhood tells a different story. Together, they paint a richer and more complete picture of Manila.

The more I travel, the more I realize that the best journeys are not measured by how many places I visit, but by the people I meet along the way.

Through my travels, I have seen different sides of the Philippines. I've learned from coffee farmers in Davao, experienced community-based tourism in Mayoyao, and visited mountain communities where traditions remain part of everyday life. 

Davao Coffee Tour

Mayoyao

Through Trails to Empower Kids (TREK), the volunteer organization I co-founded nearly two decades ago, I've also experienced voluntourism and seen how travel can create opportunities for underserved communities.

TREK Kibungan

These experiences taught me that tourism is not just about visiting beautiful places. It is about supporting local businesses, respecting culture, and helping communities grow. Sometimes, the most memorable destinations are not the most popular ones. They are the places where every meal is cooked by a local family, every guide proudly shares stories about their hometown, and every visitor helps create livelihoods.

That is why sustainability and inclusivity matter so much.

Sustainability means protecting the places we love so future generations can enjoy them too. It means caring for nature, preserving heritage, and supporting businesses that give back to their communities.

Inclusivity means making sure tourism benefits everyone. It gives emerging destinations, Indigenous communities, local artisans, and small businesses the chance to share their stories and welcome more visitors. Tourism should create opportunities not only for famous destinations but also for places waiting to be discovered.

Sustainability and Inclusivity are just two of the four pillars, or the 4Ps, that guide PHILTOA's NextGen Tourism campaign. The other two are Health and Wellness, which encourages travel that helps people reconnect with nature and themselves, and Digitalization, which uses technology to make travel easier while helping even small tourism businesses reach more travelers. 

I'm glad PHILTOA has chosen these priorities because they reflect the kind of tourism I hope to see more of in the Philippines. They are also at the heart of this year's 37th Philippine Travel Mart, happening from September 4 to 6 at the SMX Convention Center Manila.

PHILTOA has long promoted domestic tourism while encouraging travelers to discover destinations beyond the usual favorites. I had the privilege of joining one of its familiarization tours to Misamis Occidental, where I experienced firsthand how community-based tourism can create opportunities for local businesses and residents. 

I was also fortunate to attend the Philippine Travel Mart press launch at Lakbay Museo at Ayala Malls Manila Bay. The museum brings together the country's festivals, famous landmarks, traditional houses, and cultural icons in one interactive space. It was the perfect venue because it reminds visitors just how diverse and colorful the Philippines really is.

During the launch, PHILTOA President Maria Lourdes Flor "Malou" Japson described the event as a preview of what visitors can expect at this year's Philippine Travel Mart. Carrying the theme "Nurturing NextGen Tourism," the travel fair continues PHILTOA's campaign of promoting tourism that is sustainable, inclusive, digitally empowered, and focused on the well-being of both travelers and host communities.

PHILTOA President Maria Lourdes Flor "Malou" Japson

For 37 years, the Philippine Travel Mart has encouraged Filipinos to explore the country. This year, visitors can once again expect exclusive airfare, hotel, tour, and destination deals from tourism stakeholders across the Philippines. More importantly, it offers the chance to discover new destinations, support local communities, and meet the people behind the country's tourism industry.

This year's Philippine Travel Mart brings together close to 300 exhibitors from 15 regions, including Metro Manila, the Cordillera Administrative Region, BARMM, and local government units from Agusan del Sur, Batanes, Camiguin, Capiz, Laguna, Palawan, Kalibo, Malay, Ilocos Norte, and Cotobato City. 

The event encourages Filipinos to discover destinations through experiences that are responsible, meaningful, and rooted in local communities.

Visitors can explore destinations beyond the usual tourist circuit, discover unique local experiences, and connect directly with tour operators, hotels, airlines, attractions, and tourism enterprises from across the country. For many emerging destinations, the Philippine Travel Mart is also an opportunity to introduce themselves to a wider audience.

There will also be seminars, certification programs, educational forums, and industry dialogues under its 4Ps Program. These initiatives help tourism stakeholders become more professional, innovative, and globally competitive while strengthening collaboration across the industry.

I hope more Filipinos take the time to explore our own country, not only for its beautiful destinations but also for the communities that make every journey meaningful. The upcoming Philippine Travel Mart is a great opportunity to begin that journey with purpose.

I've been fortunate to travel to many parts of Mindanao over the years, but it's such a vast region that I know I've only scratched the surface. There are still so many places I want to visit, and Misamis Occidental had long been one of them. So when the opportunity came to join the Philippine Tour Operators Association (PHILTOA) familiarization tour, I didn't think twice.

Located in Northern Mindanao, Misamis Occidental stretches from the shores of Iligan Bay to the slopes of the Mt. Malindang Range. 

Anyone who knows me knows that I'm happiest in the mountains or by the sea, and Misamis Occidental gave me plenty of both. But the province also surprised me with its well-preserved heritage sites and pilgrimage destinations. In just three days, we explored historic churches, drove through cool mountain roads to waterfalls and crater lakes, and capped the trip with island hopping along the coast.

Lake Duminagat

We then made our way to Ozamiz City, where history took center stage. We explored Cotta Fort, a Spanish-era fortress that once protected the city from seaborne attacks, before visiting the nearby Immaculate Conception Cathedral, one of the city's most recognizable landmarks.

No trip to Misamis Occidental would be complete without trying its local delicacies. In the town of Clarin, we stopped by Clarin House of Suman, where we sampled some of their famous rice cakes. With more than 14 varieties to choose from, we couldn't resist trying the ube, chocolate, and pineapple flavors, best enjoyed with a warm cup of sikwate.

The day ended in the heritage town of Jimenez, where we visited the Saint John the Baptist Parish Church, a National Cultural Treasure. Built in the late 19th century, it is considered one of the finest preserved Spanish colonial churches in Mindanao. Inside, you'll find a beautifully painted ceiling, an antique wooden altar, and a historic pipe organ, making it one of the province's most important heritage sites.

Our second day took us to the cool highlands of Don Victoriano, often called the summer capital of Misamis Occidental. The drive itself was part of the experience, with winding mountain roads and refreshing scenery all the way to Piduan Falls. Known as the "Curtain Falls" because of the way the water flows across a wide rock wall, it's one of the province's most impressive natural attractions and surprisingly easy to reach.

From there, we continued to Lake Duminagat, tucked deep within the Mt. Malindang Range Natural Park. Surrounded by lush forests inside an ASEAN Heritage Park, the emerald-colored crater lake remains one of the province's most peaceful places. It is also considered sacred by the Subanen, the indigenous people of Misamis Occidental, who have long regarded the lake as an important part of their culture and traditions.

In the afternoon, we explored the municipality of Sapang Dalaga. We visited Sapang Bato Falls, enjoyed fresh seafood at the local market, and made our way up to Caluya Shrine. Perched on a hill overlooking Casul Bay, the shrine is home to a towering 45-foot Christ the Redeemer statue by renowned Mindanaoan sculptor Kublai Millan. Aside from being an important pilgrimage site, it also offers beautiful views of the coastline below.

The morning of our third day was spent exploring the waters of Sinacaban. We boarded a boat for an island-hopping tour that took us to Sperm Island, known for its distinctive shape when viewed from above and its powdery white sand. Not far away is Ovum Island, another small island that perfectly complements the experience and adds a fun conversation starter to any trip. Spending the morning surrounded by clear waters was a relaxing way to end our adventure in Misamis Occidental.

Throughout our stay, we were based at the Asenso Misamis Occidental Resort and Aquamarine Park (AMORAP) in Sinacaban. Often referred to as the "Maldives of Mindanao," the resort is still refining its facilities and guest experience, but its potential is already easy to see. Floating cottages, turquoise waters, expansive mangrove forests, and marine conservation areas make it one of the province's most ambitious tourism developments. It also serves as the gateway to the island-hopping destinations we visited on our final day.

The trip concluded with a business-to-business session between PHILTOA members and the Asenso Misamis Occidental Travel and Tour Operators Association (AMOTTOA). Local tourism stakeholders showcased their accommodations, attractions, and tour experiences, laying the groundwork for future partnerships that will hopefully make Misamis Occidental even more accessible to travelers.

Three days hardly felt enough, but they were enough to convince me that Misamis Occidental deserves a spot on anyone's Mindanao itinerary. More importantly, the trip reminded me that no matter how many times I return to Mindanao, there's always another province, another community, and another story waiting to be discovered. That, for me, is what makes exploring this part of the Philippines so rewarding.

When people think of long-distance pilgrimages in Europe, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the Camino de Santiago in Spain. But after walking the final 133 kilometers of the Via Francigena from Montefiascone to Rome, I can confidently say there's another pilgrimage route that deserves far more attention.

I arrived a day before starting my Via Francigena and stayed at I Love Host 24. My only goal that afternoon was to secure my Credentiale, or pilgrim passport, and collect my first stamp. With the help of the tourism office, I was able to do both with ease.

Stage 1: Montefiascone → Viterbo (18.6 km)

The first stage began with an easy descent out of Montefiascone and into the countryside. Along the way, I admired the impressive dome of the Basilica of Santa Margherita, one of the largest church domes in Italy, passed the Rocca dei Papi or Fortress of the Popes, and enjoyed sweeping views of Lake Bolsena.

From there, the trail crossed open plains and agricultural fields, with patches of colorful wildflowers brightening the landscape. I also passed a thermal spring, a popular stop for pilgrims, but with temperatures already rising, I decided to continue walking.

After nearly seven hours on the trail, I arrived in Viterbo, one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Lazio. Known as the site of the first papal conclave, the city is surrounded by imposing walls and filled with cobblestone streets, stone palaces, and centuries-old churches.

For the night, I stayed at Casa per Ferie Il Villino, managed by the Sisters Adorers of the Blood of Christ. While it is located a little off the Via Francigena route, it provided exactly what I needed after an 18.6-kilometer walk: a quiet room and a good night's sleep.

Stage 2: Viterbo → Vetralla (21 km)

The following day, I set out for Vetralla. Before leaving, I spent some time exploring parts of Viterbo that I had missed the day before. Soon, the trail led me into the forest.

I immediately felt at home.

Much of the route passed beneath a canopy of trees, with sunlight filtering through the branches and long stretches of silence surrounding the trail. I was grateful for my years of mountaineering, which made me comfortable walking alone through forests. It took quite some time before I encountered other pilgrims.

One of the highlights of the day was San Martino al Cimino, a fortified medieval village that seemed frozen in time. I stopped there to rest, have a meal, and enjoy the atmosphere before continuing my journey.

It was there that it finally dawned on me: I had made it to Italy, the country my great-grandfather came from, and I was exploring it on my own.

After San Martino, the trail returned to the forest before eventually opening up to the roads leading into Vetralla. The ascents were manageable, and the views along the way made the effort worthwhile. 

I spent the night at Albergo Da Benedetta, a family-run accommodation popular with pilgrims.

Stage 3: Vetralla → Sutri (24 km)

The third stage, from Vetralla to Sutri, was one of the longest at around 24 kilometers.

The trail crossed the Monti Cimini region, winding through forests, streams, and quiet rural landscapes. 

Along the way stood Torri d'Orlando, the ruins of an 11th-century tower and monastery that serve as reminders of the route's long history.

One of the day's highlights was Capranica, a beautiful medieval town perched on a ridge. Like many settlements along the Via Francigena, it felt almost untouched by time. Stone houses lined narrow streets while views stretched across the surrounding countryside.

After Capranica came my favorite section of the entire pilgrimage.

The trail entered a moss-covered forest that followed a stream. Wooden bridges and rustic walkways crossed the water several times. There was no mobile signal and no sign of modern life, only the sound of flowing water and birds hidden among the trees.

Hours later, the forest gave way to views of Sutri, perched atop a ridge of red volcanic tuff. From a distance, the town looked like a fortress overlooking the countryside.

I spent the night at Hotel Sutrium, located in the heart of town.

Stage 4: Sutri → Campagnano di Roma (24.8 km)

By the fourth day, the landscape began to change. Forests gradually gave way to farmland and open countryside. Leaving Sutri meant passing some of the area's most important archaeological sites, including the Etruscan Necropolis and the Roman Amphitheater carved directly into the rock.

The route to Campagnano di Roma felt distinctly rural. Fields stretched toward the horizon while tractors worked in the distance. I passed through Monterosi, another small and quiet village, where I stopped for coffee and lunch before continuing toward the Treja River Valley, a protected regional park.

I also passed Monte Gelato Waterfalls. Although it is one of the best-known attractions along this section of the Via Francigena, I decided to simply enjoy a snack nearby before continuing on my way.

The final climb into Campagnano proved more challenging than expected. The hills seemed endless. Still, seeing the medieval town come into view made the effort worthwhile.

Stage 5: Campagnano di Roma → La Storta (22 km)

Stage five was the toughest day of the pilgrimage.

Crossing Veio Regional Park meant tackling a seemingly endless series of ascents and descents. None of the climbs were particularly steep, but together they added up.

The scenery, however, made up for it. Ancient Etruscan history lingered throughout the landscape. The ruins of Veio, once one of Rome's greatest rivals, lay hidden among the hills. Formello, another ancient medieval town, provided a welcome stop before the trail continued through forests and open countryside.

Late in the day, I reached Cascata della Mola. The small waterfall may not be among Italy's most famous natural attractions, but after more than twenty kilometers on foot, it was the perfect place to rest. Fellow pilgrims convinced me to soak my feet in the cool water, and the relief was immediate.

From there, I climbed up to La Storta.

That evening, I stayed at Casa Nostra Signora, another religious guesthouse. One thing I appreciated about the Via Francigena was the number of religious accommodations available to pilgrims. If one was fully booked, they often helped connect pilgrims with other options nearby.

Stage 6: La Storta → Rome (21 km)

The sixth and final stage felt different because Rome was finally within reach.

Much of the day involved walking on urban roads, although there were still stretches of nature. The route passed through two protected areas: Insugherata Nature Reserve and Monte Mario.

Insugherata covers around 740 hectares and serves as an important green corridor within Rome. Monte Mario is smaller, but it is home to one of the most significant viewpoints on the entire pilgrimage: Mons Gaudii, or the Mount of Joy.

For medieval pilgrims, this was the first view of Rome after weeks or even months on the road. For me, it was one of the most memorable moments of the journey. The city stretched before me, and somewhere within it stood St. Peter's Basilica.

The final kilometers passed quickly. Soon I was walking through the streets of Rome, entering St. Peter's Square, and finally approaching the basilica itself.

After 133 kilometers, I had arrived.

Showing my Credentiale allowed me to use the pilgrim entrance rather than joining the regular visitor queue. Two volunteers welcomed me warmly, offered me a place to rest, pointed me toward water and the restrooms, and helped process my Testimonium.

Afterward, I entered St. Peter's Basilica, where I was able to go to confession, attend Mass, and pray at the tomb of St. Peter.

I spent the next two days exploring Rome, including attending the papal audience.

The Via Francigena may not be as famous as the Camino de Santiago, but it offers something different. The route is quieter, sees far fewer pilgrims, and passes through parts of rural Italy that many travelers never experience.

For me, the walk to Rome was not just about reaching St. Peter's Basilica. It was also about discovering forests, medieval villages, nature reserves, and landscapes that reminded me that sometimes the best way to experience a place is on foot.