A Taste of Tradition: Exploring Pampanga’s Culinary Heritage with Manilakad

November 03, 2024 Travel

I met Jing Ordona, or Manilakad, on a trip organized by the Tourism Promotions Board of the Philippines. Since then, we’ve shared several travel adventures, and I’d long wanted to join one of his Manilakad tours. 

So when he announced a Pampanga Food Tour, I immediately signed up. Pampanga was recently awarded Asia’s Best Emerging Culinary City by the 2024 World Culinary Awards, making it the perfect time to dive into its rich culinary offerings. Since I frequently visit Pampanga for work at Clark International Airport, this tour was a great chance to further explore the province’s unique culinary heritage.


 

Our day started early at the Philippine Rabbit Bus Station, where I met friends Marky, Ayan, and Rex, all eager to explore Pampanga’s flavors. 

 

Our first stop was Annie Bea’s Eatery, a carinderia conveniently located beside the bus terminal in Angeles City. Annie Bea’s serves hearty Filipino classics like lengua (beef tongue in a creamy, rich sauce), sisig (a classic Kapampangan crispy, seasoned pork), embotido (Filipino meatloaf), lumpia (spring rolls), and batchoy (noodle soup with pork and liver). 



 

This place is a real find. Here’s a tip: go where the locals go and order what they’re having. That’s exactly what we did. And with friends along, we got to try even more dishes!

 

After Annie Bea’s, we hopped onto a tricycle. Yes, JP mixes local transport with his walking tour. He also blends heritage and culture with food explorations.

 

Our next destination was the Carmelite Monastery in Angeles City. This monastery is home to Carmelite nuns who live in prayer and service. A visit here added a calming moment to our packed itinerary. We lit candles, offered prayers, and then, I  joined the group for a quick photo.


 

Not far from the monastery was A.E. David’s Empanada Food House, famous for its empanadas, which are quintessential Filipino snacks. A.E.’s empanadas have a crispy crust that’s already packed with flavor and a generous filling. I tried the classic chicken and ham and cheese varieties and even packed a few extras to go.




From A.E. David’s Empanada Food House, we walked to Tollhouse, a family-owned restaurant that’s been a favorite in Angeles City since 1988. Tollhouse resembles a furniture store from the outside, but inside, it’s a cozy, welcoming place known for comfort food and nostalgic desserts. 



By this time, RFW House of Macapuno had opened its doors, so we returned to try their famous halo-halo and palabok. Locals rave about RFW’s halo-halo, a shaved ice dessert with different toppings. RFW’s version has mostly macapuno (coconut sport). Their palabok, a savory noodle dish topped with shrimp sauce, was equally good. We shared plates to make room for more, and our friend Jan, a proud Kapampangan, joined us from here.





Feeling full, we walked off our meal with a visit to the historic Pamintuan Mansion. This mansion, built in the 1880s, has witnessed several significant chapters in Philippine history. It served as a Katipunan headquarters during the Philippine-American War, became the seat of the First Philippine Republic, and was later used by Japanese forces during World War II. It has also functioned as a bank office, municipal building, and Angeles City’s first hotel. Today, it houses a social science museum, offering visitors a window into Pampanga’s past and its role in the nation’s history.



 

Our heritage walk continued with a visit to Holy Rosary Parish Church, also known as Santo Rosario Church. Located across from the old municipal building, this historic church has survived World War II and remains one of Angeles City’s most prominent landmarks. Declared a significant cultural property by the National Museum, the church’s restored bell tower and cobblestone paths evoke a sense of history and resilience.



Next, we visited one of Aling Lucing’s branches, known as the birthplace of sisig. Traditionally made with chopped pig ears, chicken liver, onions, and calamansi, sisig has that distinct Kapampangan flavor. 





 

This branch was air-conditioned, providing a nice break from the heat, and we enjoyed a hearty lunch featuring their famous sisig along with other local favorites.

 

We then took a jeepney to Apung Mamacalulu Shrine, home of the Santo Entierro, also called the Holy Burial. Apung Mamacalulu is enshrined at the Archdiocesan Shrine of Christ our Lord of the Holy Sepulchre in Lourdes SurThis figure that has inspired devotion since 1897. According to legend, a man once escaped the Guardia Civil with the help of Apung Mamacalulu. In 1928, a duplicate image caused excitement, and now both have dedicated followers. 





Our next stop was the historic Camalig Restaurant, a 100-year-old grain depot converted into a restaurant in 1980. The word camalig means “shed” in Kapampangan, and this unique space has maintained its rustic charm. Camalig is famous for Armando’s Pizza, made with handmade dough, fresh local toppings, and slow-cooked sauce. We tried a pizza topped with native ingredients and paired it with a kamias shake prepared from freshly picked fruits from their trees.




After Camalig, we grabbed coffee at 1000CC Coffee, located in the same compound as 25 Seeds, a farm-to-table restaurant by Chef Sau Del Rosario. I’ve tried 25 Seeds before, and they serve really good Kapampangan dishes.

 

We couldn’t leave Pampanga without stopping at LA Bakeshop, renowned for its cheese bread and Spanish bread. Established in 1985, this bakeshop has become a staple for locals. The cheese bread was warm, fluffy, and slightly sweet – perfect for take-home treats. We also grabbed some Spanish bread, another crowd favorite, to enjoy later.


 

Just before wrapping up, we stopped at Susie’s at Nepo Mart, which was about to close. Fortunately, they have a branch at Clark International Airport, so I can easily grab my favorite treats whenever I pass by. Susie’s is known for its Kapampangan kakanin, particularly the creamy and rich tibuk-tibuk, a carabao milk dessert topped with latik and flavored with a hint of dayap zest. 


 

On the way to Susie’s, I noticed a sherbet stand and remembered a popular online post about Angeles’ famous palate cleanser. I went back to try it, and its light, refreshing sweetness was the perfect end to our culinary journey.


 

Our final stop was Mila’s Tokwa’t Baboy at Nepo Quad, a beloved carinderia in Angeles City famous for itstokwa’t baboy (tofu and pork) and crispy sisig. Unfortunately, by this point, we were far too full, so we decided to save Mila’s signature sisig for our next Pampanga trip.



 

This food tour was more than just a journey for the taste buds; it was a deep dive into Pampanga’s vibrant culture, history, and heritage. Each stop offered a unique experience, and I’m grateful to Jing for organizing such an immersive and satisfying experience. I’m already looking forward to the next adventure.

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