Ever since I first heard about the Camino, I’ve been drawn to it. The idea of walking for days on a pilgrimage, passing through historical towns, discovering new cultures, and sharing the trail with people from all over the world has always fascinated me.
The Camino de Santiago, or "Way of St. James," is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes across Europe leading to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain, which is believed to house the tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater.
Last August, for 14 days, God granted my prayer and I walked my Camino. We followed the Camino Portugués, the second most popular route, which has been walked by Portuguese pilgrims since the Middle Ages.
The Portuguese Camino also offers several options: the Litoral Route along the ocean, the Coastal Route that blends sea with towns, the Central Route winding through farmland and medieval hamlets, and the Spiritual Variant retracing St. James' legendary journey.
We chose the Central Route as our main path but began on the Coastal Route from Porto. On the second day, we turned inland at Vila do Conde to connect with the Central Route, marking our official shift away from the ocean toward Portugal’s interior.
Like many who have generously shared their itineraries before me, I now share mine in the hope that it may guide and inspire future pilgrims preparing for their own Camino.
Stage 1: Porto to Labruge
Our Camino began at the Sé do Porto, the Romanesque cathedral and traditional pilgrim starting point.
We passed Porto landmarks: Clérigos Church and Tower, the Carmo and Carmelitas churches, Praça Gomes Teixeira, and Rua de Cedofeita, one of the city’s oldest streets. We also passed the Jardim da Rotunda da Boavista, and its Peninsular War monument.
We left the city at the Ponte Móvel de Leixões, watching the drawbridge rise for a ship. We collected stamps at Café Torreão and the Tourist Information Center, then reached Matosinhos Beach. Its sands and Atlantic breeze set the tone for the coastal stretch. After lunch, we followed the boardwalk marking the official coastal route.
We arrived in Labruge before nightfall and checked into Casa de Praia, where we collected our fourth stamp. Our private room, complete with an en-suite bathroom and spacious beds, was a welcome retreat after a long first day.
By the end of our first stage, we had covered 26.7 kilometers in about eleven hours, with 38,500 steps and four pilgrim stamps collected.
Stage 2: Labruge to São Pedro de Rates
We started our day with morning prayers before setting out from Labruge, following quiet lanes through cornfields, and then returning to the coastal boardwalk.
Our first stop was Faz Sabor, a beachfront café where we enjoyed refreshments with a sea view and collected our fifth stamp. We rested a bit at the Biblioteca da Praia before turning inland.
We dropped by the Capela de São Sebastião, a small whitewashed chapel, for prayers and to receive our sixth stamp. After that, we crossed into Vila do Conde, a charming riverside town lined with cafés.
We stopped for lunch near the Santa Clara Albergue, adding another stamp, before passing the impressive Aqueduto de Santa Clara, a 17th-century marvel with nearly 999 arches.
At Vila do Conde, we officially left the Coastal Route and joined the Central Route. Our path shifted from ocean views to more industrial and inland scenery.
After more than nine hours on the road, we arrived in São Pedro de Rates, where we were warmly welcomed at Casa Anabela with freshly squeezed lemon juice. Our room opened onto the gardens, featuring comfortable beds and an en-suite bathroom.
At the close of our second stage, we had walked 23.6 kilometers, collected three more stamps, and logged 34,713 steps.
Stage 3: São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos
Before continuing our Camino, we explored historic São Pedro de Rates. At its heart stands the Igreja Românica de São Pedro de Rates, one of the finest Romanesque churches in northern Portugal. Built in the 12th century on the site of an earlier temple, it is closely tied to Saint Peter of Rates, the region’s first bishop and an early Christian martyr. For centuries, this compound has welcomed pilgrims making their way to Santiago.
From Rates, the path wound through farmland, with cornfields and small vineyards on either side. We reached a park featuring the iconic Galo de Barcelos, where pilgrims leave tokens and souvenirs.
After a few more kilometers of walking, we stopped at Café da Igreja, near Igreja Matriz de Fragoso, for our first stamp of the day.
By mid-afternoon, we arrived at Cantina do Peregrino for lunch and another stamp before continuing on to Barcelos, a city recognized by UNESCO as part of its Creative Cities Network for Crafts and Folk Art. It is most famous for the colorful Galo de Barcelos, now a national symbol of Portugal.
We stayed at In Barcelos, right in the center, an old building transformed with modern, Instagrammable amenities. It was not only comfortable but also a great base for exploring the city. In the evening, we wandered Barcelos’ charming streets, soaking in its medieval atmosphere, artisan shops, and lively plazas.
On our third day, we covered 15.2 kilometers, picked up three stamps, and logged 22,533 steps, concluding another memorable stage.
Stage 4: Barcelos to Vitorino dos Piães
From Barcelos, the path led us along highways bordered by farmland, a stretch that felt long and uneventful. We opted for a shorter route via Google Maps, which helped us cover ground quickly but meant missing some of the Camino’s surprises.
The morning remained cool under gray skies until late morning, when the sun appeared and the temperature rose, although the country breeze continued to blow comfortably.
The day’s reward awaited at Casa Fernanda, a true Camino legend. I had read so much about Fernanda that I knew we had to stay there; it became the first accommodation I booked for the trip.
We were warmly welcomed with snacks and wine. Dinner was served at a long communal table, and it felt more like being at a family gathering than at an albergue. We chatted easily with other pilgrims, sharing stories from the road, and the evening wrapped up with port wine and singing.
Over dinner, Fernanda reminded us that many people dream of walking the Camino but cannot. And so, whenever the road feels hard, she urged us to think of them and to dedicate a few steps to world peace.
We finished the day with 18.7 kilometers behind us in just over seven hours, adding one more stamp and 27,000 steps to our journey.
Stage 5: Vitorino dos Piães to Ponte de Lima
This stage was one of the most beautiful walks on our Camino, although it was a bit challenging for me due to cramps.
The path wound through quiet rural roads lined with cornfields and vast vineyards, with the sun following us the whole way as we climbed gentle hills and trails.
We had our first rest at Igreja Paroquial de Santo André de Vitorino dos Piães. Along the way, we passed through villages like Fachas and Seara, stopping at small chapels and shaded parks where pilgrims often leave souvenirs. At one point, we even came across a humble spot offering free food for pilgrims, a small but heartwarming act of generosity that reminded us of the kindness found along the Camino.
Before long, we caught our first glimpse of the Ponte de Lima bridge, Portugal’s oldest and most iconic.
The trail brought us down to the rushing Lima River and straight into the buzz of the town center, where cafés and restaurants lined the streets. It was the perfect place to stop for a late lunch before crossing the bridge and heading to our hotel.
We stayed at Arc My Otel, a charming three-star hotel set in a prime location in the center of Ponte de Lima. We had a very spacious room with a modern toilet and bath.
That evening, we also met Manuel, who kept a dictionary of words translated for him by pilgrims from all over the world. He granted us another stamp, bringing our total to 14.
That day, we walked 16.3 kilometers in 6 hours and 26 minutes, logging 26,700 steps and reaching a cumulative distance of 100.5 kilometers.
Stage 6: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães
When locals in Ponte de Lima saw me limping, they warned that the next stage would be tough. They were not wrong.
The day began gently, with quiet lanes winding past vineyards, cornfields, and stone walls. We paused at the Igreja de Santa Marinha de Arcozelo, a classic pilgrim stop, and later passed a small park where tokens left by pilgrims hung as reminders of those who walked before us.
And then we hit the Serra da Labruja. The climb started off steadily enough, and about halfway up, we stopped at a café for lunch. I had what turned out to be the best meal of the Camino, a comforting, soupy rice dish made with chicken blood and topped with fried chicken. It was the perfect fuel for what came next, because the climb after lunch grew steeper and seemed to go on forever. Even the descent on the other side tested our legs just as much.
When we reached Rubiães, we stopped by a pharmacy where, by chance, we met the owner of our accommodation. She was helping another pilgrim suffering from blisters. I picked up magnesium tablets to help with cramps, then walked the last flat kilometer to our lodging, grateful the hardest stage was finally behind us.
Our accommodation was in São Sebastião, a popular accommodation among pilgrims. Our room was spacious with an en-suite bathroom. It also had a laundry area, a swimming pool, and a kitchen. Nearby was a café where we had dinner and drinks, celebrating our last night in Portugal.
We walked 20.2 kilometers that day in just over 9 hours, collecting 2 stamps and logging 30,506 steps, which brought our cumulative distance to 120.7 kilometers.
Stage 7: Rubiães to Tui
This was a milestone walk for us because this is the day we crossed from Portugal into Spain and reached Tui. Initially, my friends wanted to start in Tui, but I insisted on beginning in Porto. I even considered walking alone and meeting them in Tui later. It's a good thing they decided to walk with me from the start.
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| Wore the HOKA Mafate Three 2 and finished without a single blister. Highly recommended for the Camino. |
The stage was long but relatively easy to navigate. We set out early from Casa São Sebastião with only coffee to start the day. After about a kilometer, we paused at a small café for breakfast before continuing on.
We made our first stop in Cossourado, resting by the village church before continuing on through shaded forest trails. Later, in Fontoura, we took another café break at Taberna de Igreja, right across from the Capela do Senhor dos Aflitos. The path brought us back into the forest until we reached Quinta Caminho, a rather posh stop where pilgrims are served hearty meals, perfect for lunch. Not long after, we had our credentials stamped again at the Capela do Senhor do Bonfim.
From there, it was a steady stretch on rural roads that eventually led us into Valença, the final city before crossing the border.
In Valença, the Camino passed through the Fortaleza, an impressive fortification, before leading to the bridge over the River Miño.
The middle of the bridge marks the official boundary between Portugal and Spain.
After crossing the bridge, we were finally in Spain. Our accommodation was just a short, gentle climb from the streets below, near the Tui Cathedral and surrounded by restaurants. It was our largest lodging yet, with its own living room, a kitchen with free coffee, and windows that perfectly framed a view of the cathedral.
On this day, we collected four stamps, logged 22.2 kilometers, and took 32,092 steps, bringing our cumulative distance to 142.9 kilometers over more than ten hours, including breaks.
Stage 8: Tui to O Porriño
We started our day by getting our stamp at the Tui Cathedral.
From there, we wandered through the town’s medieval-style alleys, passing historic churches like the Igrexa de San Bartolomeu and small forested patches along the way. We crossed the Ponte de Veiga, a medieval bridge often referred to as the Roman bridge, and continued through a long stretch of forest before the Camino intersected with the highway.
By noon, we passed another historic bridge marked with pilgrim signs and a park where travelers left souvenirs. We stopped briefly at Xarden Bar and Coffee for snacks before returning to the forest trails.
Around the halfway point, the route split. One option led through quiet woodlands, while the other led through an industrial zone, approximately a kilometer shorter. We chose the latter, which meant a long, flat 2.8-kilometer stretch lined with factories and warehouses. It was not the most scenic, but it was manageable.
The sky stayed overcast, keeping the temperature cool and comfortable. By late afternoon, we arrived in O Porriño, where the streets opened up to shops, cafés, and restaurants. We stopped at a local cafeteria serving pilgrim meals before continuing on to Hostal Louro. Our host welcomed us warmly, turning what could have been an ordinary stop into a memorable and inviting stay.
On this day, we walked 18.7 kilometers, bringing our cumulative distance to 161.6 kilometers. The journey took 7 hours and 52 minutes, during which we logged 26,079 steps and collected 5 stamps, bringing our total to 25.
Stage 9: O Porriño to Redondela
A light drizzle greeted us as we left O Porriño, winding through city streets and onto village roads before the Camino rose into the hills of Mos. The climb after Mos was steady and challenging, about three kilometers of forest trails and hamlets, but the reward came with the 100-kilometer marker, a major milestone for every pilgrim.
Mos quickly became one of my favorite villages along the way. Its stone houses, church square, and peaceful charm felt timeless.
From the Capilla de Santaguiño de Antas, the descent began, eventually leading to a stunning viewpoint over Redondela.
The final stretch was steep and winding, and we rewarded ourselves with a late but delicious lunch of shellfish before reaching the city. Redondela is where the Portuguese Coastal and Central routes converge, so the Camino suddenly feels fuller and more lively. It was here that we also met fellow Filipinos who had started from Vigo.
We stayed at Rua do Medio, a cozy stop right on the Camino, with laundry facilities, a small but welcome gift after days of walking.
We covered 18.3 kilometers today, earning three stamps and taking 25,873 steps, for a total of 179.9 kilometers over 8 hours and 46 minutes, including rest stops and lunch.
Stage 10: Redondela to Arcade
This was our “rest day,” with only a short stage ahead. Many pilgrims plan rest days, staying a full day in a chosen town or village, but our tight schedule did not allow for that. This 8.8-kilometer walk became equivalent to our rest day.
Rain fell at first as we climbed through country roads and forest trails, but the skies cleared by the time we reached Fonte O Viso. From there, the views of the RÃa de Vigo estuary opened wide before us, a serene reward for the morning’s trek.
The trail included several ascents, and at one point we had to choose between a longer, gentler route or a shorter, steeper one. We opted for the latter, which added a little challenge but still felt relaxing overall.
The descent carried us through peaceful forest paths, ending at the N550 highway that led directly into Arcade. We arrived early enough to enjoy a hearty lunch at a pilgrim restaurant before checking into Hotel Restaurante Isape. Although slightly off the main Camino, it was conveniently located and comfortable, with a restaurant that allowed us to end the day with a satisfying meal.
We walked 8.8 kilometers, collected two stamps, took 15,436 steps, and spent 4 hours and 48 minutes on the trail, including rest stops and lunch, bringing our cumulative distance to 188.7 kilometers and total stamps to 30.
Stage 11: Arcade to Pontevedra
By now, our Camino mornings had a comforting rhythm: we would wake up at 7 a.m., drop off our luggage at the lobby for transfer by 8 a.m. with Top Santiago, and then set out after breakfast.
Before leaving Arcade, we stopped at a souvenir shop to get our stamps and take a few photos at the bridge connecting Arcade to the surrounding villages. Along the way, we passed small villages where residents had set up stalls offering souvenirs.
We entered the forest and stopped twice: once at a makeshift tent where pilgrims could rest, refresh, and collect a stamp, and again at a food truck where we enjoyed coffee and added another stamp.
At a fork in the path, we chose the shorter, village route instead of the forest trail. It was shorter but admittedly a bit monotonous.
Lunch came at Casa Pepe Do Marco, after which we continued to the center of Pontevedra. We paused at the large marker before making our way to the church dedicated to Our Lady of Peregrina, where we collected our stamp.
Our home for the night was far from ordinary. We stayed at HospederÃa Monasterio de Poio, located on the Spiritual Route. The guesthouse located in a historic building that was formerly a Benedictine monastery in Poio.
We walked 13.5 kilometers, collected six stamps, and spent 6 hours and 49 minutes on the trail, including rest stops and lunch, bringing our cumulative distance to 202.2 kilometers and total stamps to 36.
Stage 12: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
From Monasterio de Poio, we took a taxi back to the central route, resuming our walk at the Church of Our Lady of Peregrina.
The rain was relentless as we left Pontevedra, trudging through city streets that soon gave way to the Via Romana XIX and forest trails. The path was mostly flat, but the rain made the stones slick.
A bright spot was Brother Carlos at the Igrexa de Santa MarÃa de Alba, who greeted pilgrims with coffee, first aid, and heartfelt blessings. This was the spiritual encounter I had been hoping for on this Camino.
We had lunch at A Pousada Do Peregrino, seated under a vineyard heavy with grapes. The restaurant also sold souvenirs. Returning to the trail, we passed parks, more vineyards, and refreshment stops before reaching Caldas de Reis.
Known for its hot springs, Caldas de Reis felt like the perfect place to pause. We didn't have time to soak, but Hotel Lotus provided us with the rest we needed after a long day.
On this stage, we walked 23.9 kilometers in 9 hours and 40 minutes, including breaks, collected 2 stamps for a total of 38, and logged 35,112 steps, bringing our cumulative distance to 226.1 kilometers.
Stage 13: Caldas de Reis to Padrón
This was another challenging day for me, as body aches grew stronger the closer we got to our destination, even though the stage was shorter than the previous day.
We started our walk in the rain, accompanied by a chill and the wind. We followed municipal roads to the Via Romana, then navigated slightly muddy forest paths.
We stopped for snacks at Esperón Bar Comidas, where pilgrims had left messages on the walls. Of course, we added our own. We also passed the Church of Santa Mariña de Carracedo, a historic church featuring a carved wooden shoe left by grateful pilgrims.
From there, we continued into the forest trails of Valga.
We had lunch at Concello de Valga, where I had the Galician soup.
The Camino wound through villages after, eventually leading us across the Sar River into Padrón, a town forever linked to St. James, whose remains were said to have first landed here before being taken to Santiago.
We stayed at Terra de Padrón Guesthouse, a comfortable base in the town center, perfect for reflecting on how close we were to the end of our journey.
On this stage, we walked 21.7 kilometers in 8 hours and 25 minutes, including breaks, collected 5 stamps for a total of 43, and logged 30,287 steps, bringing our cumulative distance to 247.8 kilometers.
Stage 14: Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
Our final stage was the longest, and I briefly regretted not splitting it into two. The Camino wound mostly through villages, with climbs that were steady but never dramatic. The scenery was modest compared to earlier days, but anticipation carried us forward.
We stopped for coffee at Café Bar Rianxeira, then at the Santuário da Virxe da Escravitude, a baroque shrine where we collected a stamp, lit candles, and offered prayers.
The highlight of this stage was the musicians we encountered along the trails, their music lifting our spirits as we pressed on. We stopped again in Rois for coffee. The forest trails were also a blessing, their quiet beauty helping us through the fatigue.
Lunch came at a restaurant in Concello de Ames, where I had stingray with potatoes, an unforgettable final Camino meal. Only 8 kilometers remained from there.
Seven kilometers from Santiago, we caught our first glimpse of the cathedral spires. My heart leapt at the sight.
We descended and entered the town of Santiago from there. As we drew closer, strangers on the streets clapped and cheered us on. Their encouragement was the final push I did not know I needed.
The first sight of the Cathedral brought a flood of emotions. Years of dreaming, months of preparation, and days of walking were finally coming to fruition. The moment felt unreal, almost suspended in time. After pausing for photos, we headed to the Pilgrims’ Office to claim our certificates, slipping in just before it closed at 7 p.m. From there, I hurried to the Pilgrims’ Mass, the highlight of this entire chapter of my life.
For our last stage, we walked 29 kilometers in 10 hours, including breaks, collected 4 stamps for a total of 47, and logged 40,000 steps, bringing our cumulative distance to 276.8 kilometers.
Santiago and Beyond
We spent another two days in Santiago.
On the first day, we took the bus to Finisterre, once thought to be the “end of the world.” Long before Christianity, the Celts regarded this coast as a sacred place where the sun was believed to die into the sea. In medieval times, it was seen as the farthest edge of the known world. For Christian pilgrims, Finisterre became a symbolic destination after Santiago, a place to release burdens, mark new beginnings, and express gratitude.
While standing on the cliffs where the Atlantic stretches endlessly, I understood why pilgrims have always come. This was more than a geographical end; it was a spiritual one.
We also spent a day exploring the cathedral and its surroundings. I could have stayed for days, and one day felt too short. We lined up to see the crypt of St. James, offered more prayers of gratitude, and I hoped for confession, though the timing was not right. There must be a Filipino priest, because I noticed a Tagalog option.
We bought souvenirs, enjoyed delicious paella, and lingered in the plaza, watching pilgrims arrive and remembering our own joy. We were also fortunate to witness the Entroido, the end-of-summer festival of the Galicians, when over 400 costumed participants brought the old town to life.
We stayed at The Last Stamp, a hostel for pilgrims just steps from the cathedral, and at San MartÃn Pinario, one of Spain’s oldest and largest monasteries that has cared for pilgrims for centuries. We needed to book two different accommodations because it was difficult to find one available for both nights.
Santiago de Compostela may have been the goal, but the Camino itself was the gift. I am endlessly grateful for the experience, and I hope you have the chance to experience the Camino. It’s a journey that stays with you long after the last step.
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