If I ever walk the Camino Portugués Central Route again, I’d give myself an extra day in Barcelos. It’s the kind of town that deserves to be lingered in, not simply passed through between pilgrim stages.
Barcelos, a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art known as the cradle of the Rooster of Barcelos (Galo de Barcelos), has the charm of a small town intertwined with the deep-rooted history of a cultural hub. Located in the Minho region of northern Portugal, it traces its origins to prehistoric times and remains one of the most character-filled towns along the Camino.
We spent our third night on the Camino here. Our route had taken us from Porto along the coast to Labruge, then to Vila do Conde, before rejoining the central path through São Pedro de Rates and finally reaching Barcelos. This stage was relatively short at 15.2 kilometers, but after walking more than 65 kilometers in total, my legs were starting to protest.
That fatigue disappeared the moment the town came into view. The first thing we saw was the medieval bridge across the Cávado River, an architectural gem that looked like it belonged in a storybook. Classified as a National Monument in 1910, the bridge serves not only as a passage for pilgrims but also as a timeless symbol of connection.
From there, the view of Barcelos was postcard-perfect. We lingered for photos before continuing to our accommodation for the night, In Barcelos Hostel & Guest House.
The guest house is set in a beautifully restored historic building, right in the heart of town, yet tucked away on a quiet street. Inside, the old-stone character meets modern design, with a fully equipped common kitchen, a glass-floored lounge that reveals the level below, and bright, comfortable rooms that offer a welcome rest for weary pilgrims.
After a quick rest, we headed out to explore as dusk settled over the town.
Our first stop was the Paço dos Condes de Barcelos (Palace of the Counts of Barcelos), a hauntingly beautiful site that merges history and archaeology. The palace ruins sit on a hill overlooking the river and the town of Barcelinhos across it. Once the seat of the Counts of Barcelos, a noble title dating back to the 13th century, the site now houses an open-air archaeological museum. It is free to enter and the perfect spot to watch the sunset over Barcelos.
It was here that I learned more about the Galo de Barcelos, which we had first encountered on the trail in a small park where pilgrims left tokens and souvenirs. The rooster, one of Portugal’s most beloved national symbols, represents faith, truth, and justice.
According to legend, a pilgrim wrongfully accused of theft was saved from execution when a roasted rooster miraculously crowed to prove his innocence. Today, the story lives on in the colorful ceramic roosters seen all over town, painted on walls, standing in plazas, and sold in every shop. Each one seems slightly different, yet all carry the same spirit of hope and redemption.
It was a cool night, and without the guidance of a map, we just let our feet take us wherever they wished. We passed a lively riverside restaurant, complete with bartenders and DJs, a modern contrast to the centuries-old surroundings. It looked like the perfect place to celebrate with a glass or two, but the sun was setting fast, and there was still more of Barcelos to see.
A short walk from the palace is Jardim das Barrocas, a graceful Baroque garden at the heart of Barcelos. With its symmetrical paths, clipped hedges, and stone statues, it’s the kind of place where time seems to slow. I felt a pang of envy for the locals who have such a beautiful park to enjoy, filled with the most colorful flowers. Nearby, a group of residents had gathered to sing, giving our evening stroll its own gentle soundtrack.
Not far away stands the Church of Bom Jesus da Cruz, built in the 18th century on the site where, according to legend, a miraculous cross appeared in 1504. Its Baroque façade, crowned with an octagonal dome, is among the most striking in northern Portugal. Inside, blue-and-white azulejos tiles tell stories of faith, framed by intricate gilded woodwork that glows in the candlelight.
We ended the evening wandering through Praça da República, where cafés and restaurants buzzed.
One night in Barcelos was not enough. The town reminded me that the Camino is not only about reaching Santiago. It is also about learning to slow down and notice where you are.
0 comments