When choosing our accommodations for our recent Camino walk on the Central Route of the Camino Portuguese from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, one of my main considerations was proximity to the official path.
In Pontevedra, however, I decided to book a bit farther, about seven kilometers away, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions I made on the Camino.
Monasterio de Poio, or Monasterio de San Xoán de Poio, is a historic monastery in Poio, Pontevedra, Spain, with roots dating back to 942. Part of the former monastery now operates as the Hospederia Monasterio de Poio, offering accommodations, a museum, and other amenities.
It sits along the Spiritual Variant of the Camino Portuguese, a route I seriously considered taking but didn’t have enough time for. Staying here felt like a small preview of that path.
My main reason for choosing this place was deeply personal. The monastery was originally founded by the Benedictine Order. Having studied at St. Scholastica’s College in Manila and being a lifelong devotee of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica, I felt a strong pull to spend a night in a place tied to that same tradition.
The monastery, founded by Saint Fructuosus, remains one of the finest Benedictine treasures in Galicia, though it is now home to Mercedarian friars.
From the Church of the Pilgrim Virgin in Pontevedra, we hailed a taxi and took a 20-minute ride to the monastery. As soon as we entered the compound, we were amazed by its grandeur.
Check-in was quick and easy despite the language barrier. Our stay included museum tickets, and we got our pilgrim stamps right away. The room was clean and spacious, and although we had a minor issue with the water pressure and the shower flooding the bathroom, it was still a comfortable and peaceful stay.
After settling in, we explored the monastery grounds.
We first visited the church to give thanks. It was already the 11th day of our walk from Porto. The 17th-century church combines Classicist and Baroque styles, with a grand Baroque altarpiece, the tomb of Saint Trahamunda, and a high altar adorned with statues dating back to 1735. The towering altarpiece is a Baroque masterpiece with twisting columns and dramatic curves.
Inside, the feeling of awe was mixed with a quiet reverence that only centuries-old sacred spaces can evoke.
Next, we wandered into the museum. There were not many signs, or maybe we just could not understand them, but we eventually found our way.
The complex has two beautiful cloisters, the 16th-century Cloister of the Processions and the 18th-century Cloister of the Orange Trees.
The Cloister of the Processions (Claustro de los Procesiones) is the older of the two and is located within the main complex, adjacent to the church. Built in the Renaissance style, it features graceful stone arches resting on sturdy columns that frame an open courtyard. The name comes from the religious processions that once took place along its covered walkways, where monks moved in prayerful silence.
The Cloister of the Orange Trees (Claustro de los Naranjos), built in the 18th century, is more open and decorative, centered around a Baroque-style courtyard planted with orange trees that perfume the air.
The highlight here is the monumental mosaic covering the cloister walls, a masterpiece by artist Antoine Machourek created between 1989 and 1992. The mosaic depicts the entire Camino de Santiago, tracing the pilgrimage routes from France to Compostela in intricate color and texture. It is one of the largest mosaics in the world, transforming the cloister into a vibrant celebration of faith and journey.
The museum also has other unique pieces, a library, and contemporary art.
Aside from these, the complex also features a massive hórreo. According to available information, this is the largest hórreo in Galicia and is truly a sight to behold. The structure is so large that it has to be supported by three rows of stone pillars.
Dinner was a pleasant surprise. We ordered the set meal expecting something simple, but dish after dish arrived until we were happily full. It felt like a reward for the long days behind us.
Breakfast the next morning was one of the best we had on the Camino. There, we met a solo traveler and a couple, both taking the Spiritual Variant. We exchanged stories and wished each other Buen Camino. I silently wished that one day, I could come back and walk that route too.
It started to rain as we packed up and left our luggage at reception. The kind lady at the front desk helped us call a cab back to the Church of the Pilgrim Virgin, where we rejoined the central path.
They say the Camino provides, and this stay was one of those moments that proved it. It was more than just a stop. It was a deeper connection, a gentle reminder that every detour can lead to meaning.
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