The name Montserrat means “serrated mountain” in Catalan, a tribute to its jagged peaks. Legend says angels carved them with a golden saw to create a throne for the Virgin Mary. Another tale claims the Holy Grail, long sought by kings and mystics, is hidden here. The mountain also inspired Antoni Gaudí, and its shapes and energy can be seen in his designs, especially the Sagrada Família.

Yet despite all the stories that swirl around Montserrat, my reason for visiting was simpler. It is home to a Benedictine monastery, perched on a hill that looks otherworldly, and it offered another chance for a hike.

We booked our tour online and met the group early at a bus station in Barcelona. From there, we were taken to a small train station where the real ascent began. The rack railway climbed steadily, revealing spectacular views as we gained elevation. Soon we were surrounded by jagged rocks while the entire region spread out beneath us.

The first thing I did was browse the souvenir shop to claim our free cookies and wine. Then we boarded the Sant Joan Funicular. In only five minutes, it carried us higher until we reached a viewpoint. We did a bit of hiking afterward. Mist curled around us as we walked, soft and cool, giving everything a dreamlike quality.

On the way down, the skies suddenly opened. It rained hard, and we were completely drenched by the time we reached the rest of our tour group. We were soaked as we made our way toward the heart of Montserrat.

The Benedictine Monastery of Montserrat has stood here for nearly a millennium. Today, around 70 monks live in the community. The monastery sits sheltered by natural stone walls and appears cradled halfway up the mountain. The monks also run a boys’ choir school devoted to the study of sacred music, one of the oldest in Europe.

In the monastery’s atrium lies a circular black-and-white marble design that has become famous among visitors. Many New Age and spiritual travelers consider it an energy point or vortex. They believe that Montserrat is crossed by powerful telluric energy lines and that this exact spot holds a concentration of heart chakra energy. It is common to see people standing in the center barefoot, or with their arms extended, hoping to feel a wave of healing or clarity.

We continued toward what many consider the soul of Montserrat, the statue known as La Moreneta. The 12th-century Romanesque wooden sculpture depicts the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child. Its dark color gave rise to its affectionate name, The Little Black One. She is the patron saint of Catalonia and is honored not only by Catholics but also by non-Catholics who see in her echoes of ancient mother goddess traditions.

According to legend, shepherd boys discovered the statue in a cave around the year 880. They were guided by mysterious lights and heavenly music. When church leaders tried to move her downhill, something strange happened. The statue grew heavier with every step. This was taken as a sign that she wanted to remain on the mountain, so the monastery was built on that exact spot.

Through the centuries, pilgrims have claimed healings and miracles through her intercession. Walls filled with ex-votos, or tokens of gratitude, testify to her influence. In 1881, Pope Leo XIII officially declared her the patron saint of Catalonia. She has remained a symbol of protection for the region and even survived the turbulence of the Spanish Civil War, when she was hidden for safekeeping.

After visiting The Black Madonna, we made our way back to the basilica. The Basilica de Montserrat features a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It was heavily damaged during the Peninsular War and later rebuilt in the 19th century.

Inside, we experienced Lux Splendens, a 360-degree audiovisual show created for the millennium anniversary of the abbey. The production weaves imagery, music, and light into three movements that explore Creation, the Virgin Mary, and Christ. 

The symphonic-choral soundtrack is inspired by the Virolai, the hymn of Montserrat. The immersive visuals transform the basilica, making the space feel alive and filled with meaning.

After a long and wonder-filled day, we walked back toward the bus station, stopped at a small market, and then boarded our ride home. I fell asleep almost immediately on the way back to Barcelona.

Montserrat is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. Its combination of breathtaking landscapes, rich history, spiritual energy, and enduring legends makes it a destination unlike any other.