After a month away, I made my way to Iloilo, a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, to indulge in the Filipino food I had been missing.

This gastronomic adventure was organized by the Iloilo City Mayor’s Office for Culture and Heritage and Richmonde Hotel Iloilo. It was made possible by Clark International Airport and Cebu Pacific Air, which flies to Iloilo four times a week from Clark.

Breakfast at Richmonde was a full buffet feast, complete with bacon cooked two ways. 

From there, we headed to Uswag Agri-Nursery. Iloilo’s UNESCO recognition is linked to its culinary heritage and its innovative urban farming projects. These farms support local food security and sustainability while keeping traditional Ilonggo flavors thriving.

Farmers welcomed us with rice cakes, fresh fruits, and the comforting classic KBL, made with kadyos, buko, and langka. Chef Cidj Jalandoni, who I know first as a runner, demonstrated a simple ensaladang talbos, one of our favorite salads at home.

Since it was still early and we already had two breakfasts, we made a quick stop at Casa Mariquit, a beautifully preserved bahay na bato built in 1803. Located in Jaro, it is considered the oldest existing heritage house in Iloilo.

We then walked to Biscocho Haus, which is now celebrating 50 years. Established in 1975, it continues to delight visitors with its signature pasalubong items, including Biscocho, Butterscotch, Merengue, Toasted Mamon, Galletas, and other local favorites. 

I also made a nearby quick stop at Panaderia ni Pa-a, a brick-oven bakery established in 1896, to grab my mom’s favorite pasalubong.

Of course, no Iloilo trip is complete without a stop at Roberto’s for their legendary siopao. Many would argue these are the best in the country.

Lunch was at Tatoy’s Manokan and Seafood Restaurant. It has been serving authentic flavors for more than four decades and remains a favorite for its grilled chicken and seafood.

My personal favorites came later in the afternoon.

We went to Happy Ending, one of the stalls at Molo Mansion. The creators of Happy Ending are geniuses for transforming Ilonggo flavors into ice cream. The KBL flavor blends kadyos, buko, and langka into something refreshingly familiar. The batwan cheesecake turns the region’s sour fruit into a creamy, tangy treat. The baye-baye highlights the soft, toasted rice delicacy that Ilonggos love, now in ice cream form.

We then visited one of the many stalls of Jo-Anne’s famous fishball. These are far from the typical store-bought kind, and the mango sauce in three spice levels makes them even more special. I really wish we had this in Manila.

We also visited Panaderia de Molo, the oldest panaderia in the Philippines, established in 1872. Their banyadas, biscocho príncipe, galletas, hojaldres, and other pastries trace their origins to the Jason sisters of Molo. When Molo Church was rebuilt in stone in the late 19th century, egg whites were used to bind the slabs together. The leftover yolks were turned into heirloom biscuits based on old Spanish recipes.

Before winding down, we had drinks at The Urban Table. Their cocktails were inspired by Iloilo, including the Guimaras Highball, Pinasugbo Daiquiri, and Tablea de Biscocho made with products from Destileria Limtuaco. We also learned that Chef Luigi Muhlach helped develop their menu.

The day ended back at Richmonde with a feast that felt like a love letter to Ilonggo cuisine. 

Iloilo offers different types of food tours, such as heritage, chef’s picks, and sustainable eats. I was lucky to join one that combined two of my favorites, street food and panaderia culture. I will admit that I missed a few personal favorites during this tour, but Richmonde made sure we still got the full experience.

They set up interactive stations where we could make our own batchoy, molo soup, kinilaw, okoy, and even tiramisu. Each bite was packed with rich, authentic flavors that felt straight from Iloilo’s kitchens. It was a feast of Ilonggo favorites under one roof and the perfect, unforgettable way to reconnect with the flavors I had been missing.

From heritage bakes to street food and creative cocktails, my day in Iloilo was a feast for the senses and a reminder of why Filipino cuisine is world-class.