When people think of long-distance pilgrimages in Europe, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the Camino de Santiago in Spain. But after walking the final 133 kilometers of the Via Francigena from Montefiascone to Rome, I can confidently say there's another pilgrimage route that deserves far more attention.

I arrived a day before starting my Via Francigena and stayed at I Love Host 24. My only goal that afternoon was to secure my Credentiale, or pilgrim passport, and collect my first stamp. With the help of the tourism office, I was able to do both with ease.

Stage 1: Montefiascone → Viterbo (18.6 km)

The first stage began with an easy descent out of Montefiascone and into the countryside. Along the way, I admired the impressive dome of the Basilica of Santa Margherita, one of the largest church domes in Italy, passed the Rocca dei Papi or Fortress of the Popes, and enjoyed sweeping views of Lake Bolsena.

From there, the trail crossed open plains and agricultural fields, with patches of colorful wildflowers brightening the landscape. I also passed a thermal spring, a popular stop for pilgrims, but with temperatures already rising, I decided to continue walking.

After nearly seven hours on the trail, I arrived in Viterbo, one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Lazio. Known as the site of the first papal conclave, the city is surrounded by imposing walls and filled with cobblestone streets, stone palaces, and centuries-old churches.

For the night, I stayed at Casa per Ferie Il Villino, managed by the Sisters Adorers of the Blood of Christ. While it is located a little off the Via Francigena route, it provided exactly what I needed after an 18.6-kilometer walk: a quiet room and a good night's sleep.

Stage 2: Viterbo → Vetralla (21 km)

The following day, I set out for Vetralla. Before leaving, I spent some time exploring parts of Viterbo that I had missed the day before. Soon, the trail led me into the forest.

I immediately felt at home.

Much of the route passed beneath a canopy of trees, with sunlight filtering through the branches and long stretches of silence surrounding the trail. I was grateful for my years of mountaineering, which made me comfortable walking alone through forests. It took quite some time before I encountered other pilgrims.

One of the highlights of the day was San Martino al Cimino, a fortified medieval village that seemed frozen in time. I stopped there to rest, have a meal, and enjoy the atmosphere before continuing my journey.

It was there that it finally dawned on me: I had made it to Italy, the country my great-grandfather came from, and I was exploring it on my own.

After San Martino, the trail returned to the forest before eventually opening up to the roads leading into Vetralla. The ascents were manageable, and the views along the way made the effort worthwhile. 

I spent the night at Albergo Da Benedetta, a family-run accommodation popular with pilgrims.

Stage 3: Vetralla → Sutri (24 km)

The third stage, from Vetralla to Sutri, was one of the longest at around 24 kilometers.

The trail crossed the Monti Cimini region, winding through forests, streams, and quiet rural landscapes. 

Along the way stood Torri d'Orlando, the ruins of an 11th-century tower and monastery that serve as reminders of the route's long history.

One of the day's highlights was Capranica, a beautiful medieval town perched on a ridge. Like many settlements along the Via Francigena, it felt almost untouched by time. Stone houses lined narrow streets while views stretched across the surrounding countryside.

After Capranica came my favorite section of the entire pilgrimage.

The trail entered a moss-covered forest that followed a stream. Wooden bridges and rustic walkways crossed the water several times. There was no mobile signal and no sign of modern life, only the sound of flowing water and birds hidden among the trees.

Hours later, the forest gave way to views of Sutri, perched atop a ridge of red volcanic tuff. From a distance, the town looked like a fortress overlooking the countryside.

I spent the night at Hotel Sutrium, located in the heart of town.

Stage 4: Sutri → Campagnano di Roma (24.8 km)

By the fourth day, the landscape began to change. Forests gradually gave way to farmland and open countryside. Leaving Sutri meant passing some of the area's most important archaeological sites, including the Etruscan Necropolis and the Roman Amphitheater carved directly into the rock.

The route to Campagnano di Roma felt distinctly rural. Fields stretched toward the horizon while tractors worked in the distance. I passed through Monterosi, another small and quiet village, where I stopped for coffee and lunch before continuing toward the Treja River Valley, a protected regional park.

I also passed Monte Gelato Waterfalls. Although it is one of the best-known attractions along this section of the Via Francigena, I decided to simply enjoy a snack nearby before continuing on my way.

The final climb into Campagnano proved more challenging than expected. The hills seemed endless. Still, seeing the medieval town come into view made the effort worthwhile.

Stage 5: Campagnano di Roma → La Storta (22 km)

Stage five was the toughest day of the pilgrimage.

Crossing Veio Regional Park meant tackling a seemingly endless series of ascents and descents. None of the climbs were particularly steep, but together they added up.

The scenery, however, made up for it. Ancient Etruscan history lingered throughout the landscape. The ruins of Veio, once one of Rome's greatest rivals, lay hidden among the hills. Formello, another ancient medieval town, provided a welcome stop before the trail continued through forests and open countryside.

Late in the day, I reached Cascata della Mola. The small waterfall may not be among Italy's most famous natural attractions, but after more than twenty kilometers on foot, it was the perfect place to rest. Fellow pilgrims convinced me to soak my feet in the cool water, and the relief was immediate.

From there, I climbed up to La Storta.

That evening, I stayed at Casa Nostra Signora, another religious guesthouse. One thing I appreciated about the Via Francigena was the number of religious accommodations available to pilgrims. If one was fully booked, they often helped connect pilgrims with other options nearby.

Stage 6: La Storta → Rome (21 km)

The sixth and final stage felt different because Rome was finally within reach.

Much of the day involved walking on urban roads, although there were still stretches of nature. The route passed through two protected areas: Insugherata Nature Reserve and Monte Mario.

Insugherata covers around 740 hectares and serves as an important green corridor within Rome. Monte Mario is smaller, but it is home to one of the most significant viewpoints on the entire pilgrimage: Mons Gaudii, or the Mount of Joy.

For medieval pilgrims, this was the first view of Rome after weeks or even months on the road. For me, it was one of the most memorable moments of the journey. The city stretched before me, and somewhere within it stood St. Peter's Basilica.

The final kilometers passed quickly. Soon I was walking through the streets of Rome, entering St. Peter's Square, and finally approaching the basilica itself.

After 133 kilometers, I had arrived.

Showing my Credentiale allowed me to use the pilgrim entrance rather than joining the regular visitor queue. Two volunteers welcomed me warmly, offered me a place to rest, pointed me toward water and the restrooms, and helped process my Testimonium.

Afterward, I entered St. Peter's Basilica, where I was able to go to confession, attend Mass, and pray at the tomb of St. Peter.

I spent the next two days exploring Rome, including attending the papal audience.

The Via Francigena may not be as famous as the Camino de Santiago, but it offers something different. The route is quieter, sees far fewer pilgrims, and passes through parts of rural Italy that many travelers never experience.

For me, the walk to Rome was not just about reaching St. Peter's Basilica. It was also about discovering forests, medieval villages, nature reserves, and landscapes that reminded me that sometimes the best way to experience a place is on foot.