Visiting all the provinces of the Philippines wasn't always a long-standing goal for me, but the more I ventured around the country, the more completing this mission felt within reach. This past weekend, I finally checked off all the provinces north of Metro Manila with a visit to Abra, and what an adventure it was!
The trip to Abra wasn't just about ticking off another destination. I had two compelling reasons to visit: first, to meet Mr. Teofilo Garcia, a Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA) awardee known for his skill in crafting traditional tabungaw hats, and second, to finally witness the beauty of Kaparkan Falls, the province's famed terraced waterfalls.
Our adventure kicked off with a visit to Kaparkan Falls.
After a quick briefing, we began boarding the monster truck. With so many participants, there wasn't enough space for me at the back, so I was fortunate to get a seat up front. To my surprise, it turned out to be quite comfortable, and I even managed to catch up on some much-needed sleep during the ride.
The ride to Kaparkan Falls took less than two hours, and upon arrival, we had an easy 20-minute downhill trek.
Kaparkan Falls in Tineg, Abra, is truly a marvel of nature. Although locals had known about it for years, it wasn't until 2015 that an outsider brought attention to it, and it quickly became one of Abra's top tourist attractions.
Kaparkan Falls is unique for its 1,000-meter-high terraced structure, with small basins perfect for dipping. The limestone terraces give the falls a natural, almost otherworldly appearance, and when sunlight hits the water, it transforms into stunning shades of emerald green and turquoise blue.
We stayed in the area for four hours. After that, we went back to the monster truck.
Going back was another story. The trek uphill was far more tiring, and it took me twice as long to ascend compared to the easy descent.
After Kaparkan Falls, we enjoyed some local cuisine. Abra Miki is a noodle soup made with miki noodles in rich pork and chicken stock, colored with annatto seeds, and topped with crispy pork and egg.
On the way to our next destination, we passed by the Calaba Bridge, the longest modular bridge ever constructed in the Philippines.
Next, we visited Leila's Loomweaving, also known as Mang Abel ti Abra, in La Paz. This cooperative, composed mostly of mothers who are weavers and farmers, is dedicated to preserving the traditional handweaving techniques of Binakol, Kantarines, and Tiniri.
We had the opportunity to watch as these skilled mothers and their young apprentices turned threads into beautiful fabrics. Afterward, we purchased some of their exquisite handwoven creations for ourselves.
Our day came to a close with a refreshing dip at Lusuac Spring in Lagayan, where crystal-clear, cold waters emerge from the ground amidst a lush, tree-filled setting.
The water was invigorating. At first, I planned to simply watch and wait, but the sight of the clear waters was too inviting to resist.
After Lusuac, we traveled to Bangued for our overnight stay at Saint James the Elder Cathedral Parish, or Bangued Cathedral. Though I've stayed in parish accommodations before, it was a new experience for some of my companions, who found it a bit creepy. Nevertheless, the stay was very comfortable. The rooms were clean and spacious, and I felt a quiet sense of peace being so close to the cathedral.
The next morning, we visited the cathedral. While we didn't have time for mass, we made sure to pause and offer a prayer.
After breakfast, we drove to Cassamata Hill National Park. At the end of the road lies Victoria Park, where you can take in a panoramic view of the capital and surrounding municipalities. We enjoyed a bird's-eye view of Abra's plains, mighty rivers, and mountain peaks.
Afterward, we traveled to San Quintin, Abra, where I met Mr. Teofilo Garcia. Although there was a bit of a language barrier, we could communicate with a few companions' help.
It may not have been the first time I saw a tabungaw hat, but it was the first time I truly appreciated its craftsmanship. These unique Ilocano hats are made from gourds, and I was fortunate enough to purchase one for myself. Mr. Garcia even signed it as a keepsake, and it has since become one of my most treasured possessions, alongside other crafts I've collected from the homes of other GAMABA awardees I've had the privilege of meeting.